Hat and Mittens in the Åsle stitch

Jeanne de Robin

Nalbinding in Period

Although there is still some debate as to the dividing line between netting, detached buttonhole stitch and nalbinding and thus how old the technique really is, nalbinding is well developed by the 5th century AD. The earliest finds, in the buttonhole varients, are from the Judean desert and date to 6500 BC (Bender Jørgensen 7). Although considered primarily a Scandinavian technique, due to the unbroken tradition to the present day, nalbinding fragments are found throughout the world.

Although household goods such as milk strainers have been produced in nalbinding (Hald 285), most of the extent finds are articles of clothing, predominantly mittens and socks and hats. (Hald 300-310).

Åsle Stich

Åsle stitch (Hansen 26)

The åsle stitch, named for a 16th century mitten found at Åsle Mose in Gotland, Sweden, is one of the most sophisticated forms of nalbinding. It is one of the few stitches that produce distinctly different front and back sides. The Hansen classification for the åsle stitch is U (U) O/U O:U OO F1 + 1.

Åsle stitch front and back

Åsle Mitten

The Åsle mitten is made from s-spun wool and is presumed to be undyed. The mitten has an expanded cuff and the remnants of a coloured fringe remain (Hald 302).

Åsle mitten 16th century (Nockert 66)

Hat and Mittens

The hat and mittens were made in åsle stitch using commercial yarn. The stitch was chosen for its dense air trapping nature. I wear these mundanely in January when it gets to -40°C. The ends of the working strands were “spit joined” together, by untwisting the ends of both pieces, moistening them, respinning them together and then rubbing them rapidly between my palms.

Due to the nature of my winter coat, I opted not to have an expanded cuff, but rather keep them narrow. The nalbound mittens found at Lund, Riga and Tuukkala are all straight cuffed (Hovi).

Bibliography

Bender Jørgensen, Lise; 'Stone-Age Textiles in North Europe' in Textiles in Northern Archaeology, Textile Symposium in York, North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles Monograph 3, NESAT III; London Archetype Publications, 1990; pgs. 1-10; ISBN 1-873132-05-0

Briansdotter, Sigrid; Nålbinding: The Åsle Mitten Stitch: An Instruction Manual; Tangle Fairies, Snohomish WA, 2000; ISBN 0-9708354-0-X.

Hald, Margrethe; Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs And Burials: A Comparative Study of Costume and Iron Age Textiles; Publications of The National Museum of Denmark; Archaeological Historical Series XXI; Translated by Jean Olsen; Fyens Stiftsbogtrykkeri, Copenhagen, 1980; ISBN 87-480-0312-3.

Hansen, Egon H.; 'Nalebinding: definition and description' in Textiles in Northern Archaeology, Textile Symposium in York, North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles Monograph 3, NESAT III; London Archetype Publications, 1990; pgs. 21-27; ISBN 1-873132-05-0.

Hovi, Satu; Viking and Medieval Nålebinding Mitten Reconstructions; Retrieved February 17th 2009, from http://www.katajahovi.org/SatuHovi/neulakinnasRekonstr.html

Nockert, Margareta, and Göran Possnert; Att datera textilier; Hedemora: Gidlund, 2002